George F. Campbell
The neophyte shipmodeller`s jackstay
Cut the mast holes thru the decking, then give the decks a thin coat of
varnish or lacquer, the purpose being to prevent any deep soiling of the wood
while the model is worked upon. Do not allow the deck to have a shiny finish. If
so, dull it with fine sand paper. The plank lines may be emphasised by rubbing
on an oil base color (black) then scraping off excess, but you will probably
find that the varnish which fills the lines gives sufficient definition. On some
models plank lines are glaringly over-done.
Before we turn to woodworking on the outer parts of the hull, make up a simple cradle to hold it safely. Cut the cradle pieces to fit the hull (use the section lines as guide), line them with soft cloth and fix them on a base board with screws or nails. (Fig. 16.)
Apply these to the top edge of bulwarks as called for. Note that the caprail lapped slightly over the outside of the planking. Fig. 14 and inward over the timberheads, and ceiling if such was used. CEILING was planking laid over the inner side of the frames and timberheads. Warships generally were ceiled to arrest smaller projectiles, giving the typically thicker bulwarks and wider rails. Again, the sharp curves at the bow and stern may call for piecing of the rails. When made over'wide, they can be shaved to shape without trouble. Just be cautious in addressing the grain.